Thursday, September 30, 2010

Everest Expedition Part 5: On the Barkor circuit

The first full day in Lhasa means - now that the gasping for breath has subsided - that it's time to do some real exploring. But first, we need to introduce two honorary members of Team J00ster: our intrepid local guide Chungla, and our cheerful, globe-trotting tour companion Simon.



Hang on, back up one slide. No, you saw right. That's not some cheap yak-hair rip-off of the legendary Incan alpaca sweater. That's the real deal, in duplicate. The odds of running into a fellow traveler with exactly the same alpaca jersey as you are tiny at the best of times. The odds of it happening in one of the most isolated cities on earth are minuscule. And the odds of that dude being on the same tour as you defy belief. Clearly, some things are just meant to be; this is going to be one heck of a tour.

Devotion starts early up here. The morning mist is only just clearing, but the hardy pilgrims are already hard at work in the prayer zone. Mei can't even manage to show that kind of commitment to a grande latte.

Mei relishes the rare experience of being the tallest in a photo.

Outside the Jokhang is the worship superhighway, a.k.a the Barkhor pilgrim circuit. A constant stream of pilgrims wind their way through the maze of ancient streets to pay their respects at the foot of the imposing temple.

Time to check out the inside. Or not. At least not on this blog anyway. Team J00ster, like every other shutter-happy tourist, are quick to realize that photos inside just about every Tibetan temple come at the steep price of an obligatory 'photo fee'. Actually, the typical 10 yuan isn't really that much... until you realize you could buy two ice cold bottles of Lhasa Beer for that...

But hey, the roof is free. Which is ironic because as impressive as the inside is, the roof is at least as photogenic.

Or it was photogenic, until this dude meandered into the shot.

When you're at this altitude the clouds are so close they seem to almost envelope the golden spires of Jokhang.

And finally, the moment you've all been waiting for. And - seeing as this is the J00ster Journal - waiting, and waiting, and waiting for. The first glimpse of the epic Potala Palace takes the breath away. Except Rock already lost his on the brutal ascent up here... errr, if two flights of stairs and a landing wipe you out, the ol' North Face could be a bit problematic old boy.

Up here, you're not just looking out over the rooftops, you're looking back through time. This is as close as you get to a time machine. Unless you have a hot tub of course.

Up close and personal with Jokhang.

The morning rain is clearing just in time for Rock to fire up his new Nikon D90. Whaddya mean you didn't notice the difference from the old point-and-click? Must be because you were distracted by the riveting commentary.

The market at the foot of the temple in full swing. You can almost hear the bargaining, even from up here.

With the half the team sporting alpaca sweaters, and the other half wishing they were, the debate is immediate and fierce: which is more impressive, this or Machu Picchu? Fortunately, unlike any argument involving Mei, there can happily be more than one winner in this showdown.

Is this a bell? Who's game enough to try ringing it?

You thought that was cool? Just wait till you see what's coming next. Or, in the immortal words of every product you never needed... but wait, there's more!

It doesn't get much better than this. Actually, there's still Everest to come. When a monument this impressive has to fight just to be the most spectacular sight on the trip, you know you're in a special land.


Team J00ster have seen their fair share of temples (as long suffering readers can easily attest), so it would be a easy to be a become a bit blase at the latest iteration. Unless the latest iteration is one of the most spectacular sights ever constructed by man.

Guardians of a mystical fortress in a hidden land. Less poetically known as Rock trying way too hard to prove he knows how to do manual focus.

The magic of Tibet isn't just in its jagged peaks and stunning temples. It's also in the ordinary folk who toil long and hard in an unforgiving land. It's also in the juicy yak curry, at least according to Rock.

Dude, you're supposed to spin them clockwise.

Talk about a hole in the wall joint.

They say stuff tastes better in a cave, and spicy noodles are no exception. Actually they don't say that, it's just something Rock made up to fill this bit of white space between pictures.

Time for our old friend Potala from a new angle. Although it won't be new anymore after you finish scrolling through the next lot of pics.


Dude, forget the manual focus and focus (hur hur hur) on the basics. Like getting the whole palace in frame for example.

Which is worse, Rock behind the camera or Rock in front. The jury is still out. Except this is China so there is no jury, just the Party.

Back in the old town. It may be old, but it's still got style.

Hidden in one of the many alleyways is a cheery nunnery, complete with it's own tea house to serve the hungry pilgrims who pause for a brief respite from the dusty trail.

Back at home base, albeit only temporarily. A quick pitstop before kicking off the afternoon session. Next stop the Sera monastery on the outskirts of town.

Even Lhasa isn't immune from the creep of civilization. Once you get outside the old town, you might as well be in any other bustling Chinese city.

Will someone give this dude back his little point-and-shoot before someone gets hurt.


Just wait until the end of the trip and we'll see if you're still so excited to see yet another monastery...

Whoever invented the prayer wheel deserves a medal. Instead of chanting long incantations from memory one can just spin the wheel and automatically upload the whole prayer with one flick of the wrist.


Mei wonders if she can use a prayer wheel to circumvent the Great Firewall and get a Facebook update out.


It's not all trials and tribulations on the pilgrim trail; there is time for a bit of fun too. Like mocking the panting tourists who seem to be turning a mild incline into the South Col.


The Sera Monastery is best known for one feature: it's daily Debating Monks(tm).


Time to rethink your image of monks spending all day meditating in dimly lit prayer halls. Debating here is almost a contact sport. If you don't back your words up with equally emphatic gestures then you might as well concede the point now.


Blink and I win!



They start them young in these parts. And I'm not talking about on PlayStation.

Prayer beads whirl as the debate heats up. For a bunch of peace-loving do-gooders this is getting quite fiery.

Rock has neither the eloquence nor the smooth moves required to enter this arena.


The debate seems to draw the locals too. Probably beats watching CCTV soaps all day.


Phew, that was a whopping big day. Time to kick back for a well deserved Lhasa Beer in the cheery courtyard of the Tashi Choten lodge.


Now why don't my shots look like that? Rock can't wrap his head around why his handiwork hasn't turned out like Simon's. Let's see: almost the same camera, almost the same lens, almost the same location, almost the same lighting. So what's left? I think we all know the answer to that one.


Brewed on the Roof of the World. How many beers can make that claim?

First yak sighting of the trip! I guess I was expecting something a little bigger.


I wonder if there's the ashes of a dead Panchen Lama in there? Nope, just a Marlboro.


Not only does the Tashi Choten have an awesome courtyard, it also has the best roof deck in town.


Prayer flags add a dash of color to every rooftop.


Who said the Chinese takeover hasn't brought anything good to town?


Just stunning. Even biting J00ster cynicism is starting to fade. Must be the beer + altitude combo.




Outtakes for Lhasa Beer's new ad campaign. This was before they ditched the lead.


Turns out they needed someone who could actually, like, drink their beer.

If you think this is the last Potala shot for the day, think again. You ain't seen nothing yet.


Only 3.5% alcohol? At this altitude it feels like 7%. Hmph... a likely story Rock.



Brewed at the foot of the Rockies? Phuuuulease, I was brewed at the foot of the Himalayas!


Rock and Simon discuss the finer points of the upcoming evening photo shoot. Like whether yak curry or yak fired rice is on the pre-shoot menu.


Getting a bit chilly up here in the mountains. Don the alpacas, team!


A serene Jokhang by dusk, after the day's pilgrims have begun to disperse for the night.


Is the food or the view better? Toss up.


It's not hard to find reminders of who's really in charge, even out here in the far reaches of the empire.


Sunset over the Jokhang.

The clouds here seem to burst with a pent-up, nervous energy as they dart between the peaks. It's almost like they too are hoping this post will finally end.







As darkness descends, the Potala Palace towers majestically over the sleepy city below. Ok, maybe it's just Rock who's ready to hit the sack, but you get the idea.



Some criticize the grandiose Tiananmen-style square the Chinese decided to plonk down in front of the ancient palace. But when the lights come on and the fountains leap into action, it's hard not to start humming March of the Volunteers.




A fitting finale to one of Team Jooster's greatest ever days on the road.