Japan 2006 Day 5: We storm the keep at Himeji-Jo!

Before we get into the real action of Day 5, we pause to offer these exclusive behind-the-scene shots of life in a ryokan (traditional Japanese guest house). In the days before the multinational glass and concrete boxes of the Hilton and Shangri-La began to dominate the Japanese skyline, in the age before McDonald's began peddling their Teriyaki Burger and Fries Set from every street corner, weary travellers would kick up their feet after a long day at the local ryokan where a soft futon and steaming onsen (hot tub) would be waiting. Thus a ryokan was the natural choice for a bunch of travellers who were definitely weary from too many 7 am starts, definitely too poor for the Hilton or Shangri-La, and definitely would rather die of puffer fish poisoning that be caught within 100m of a golden arches. And what an experience. From the moment one enters the warmly lit lobby, where the subtle scent of incense wafts through the air, it's a different world. Rooms are elegant in their simplicity - simple bamboo mats line the floor and the walls are all wooden. Beds are a merely a futon laid on the floor. Minimalist yet comfortable and welcoming.


Following in the footsteps of Ziyi Zhang and director Rob Marshall, your photographer chooses a convenient Chinese substitute to model this traditional Japanese yutaka (robe).


Another shot from the catwalk. Rock struts his stuff in his yutaka and, uhm, yutaka shawl (and in the process runs into the limit of this three word Japanese vocabulary).


But enough shots of domestic bliss, lets get back to the action! And what better way than another shinkansen shot? This sleek machine rolls up right on the second as usual, ready to whisk the eager adventurers to their target Himeji-Jo (Himeji castle). Located about 45 minutes south of Kyoto, the castle is widely acclaimed as the most spectacular in Japan.


Don the armour, string your bows, sharpen your arrows, it's time to storm the keep (or commit hari-kari trying)! The main keep looms over the town of Himeiji, defended from the foreign invaders by a maze of lower courtyards, a gaping moat, imposing battlements and... a ticket gate.


A well-aimed pot of boiling oil will wipe that stupid grin off your face chief!


As the arrows rain down, the seige continues. The defense is resolute, but will inevitably crumble once the udon noodles run out.

Ok, maybe it won't. Might have to wait till the soy sauce runs out as well.

Surrounded by enemy samurai, Rock's katana moves so fast even the camera can't capture it's flashing blade.

Hurling down their swords, the attackers draw bows as reinforcements try to flank them from below. Fortunately, the fat tourists below are an easy target, even for Jared. In the end, victory is swift. Any doubts about the castle's authenticity are quickly quashed when the victors realise there isn't even the requisite coke maching at the top of the keep.


After wiping the blood from their swords, it's time for the warriors to enjoy the tranquility of the palace gardens. You won't be flushing these goldfish down any toilet!

Amazing how bonsai trees make even the shortest of the group look tall (naming no names, of course...)

Back home in Kyoto at Ryokan Shimizu. After a steaming onsen to recharge the batteries, it's time to hit the old alleys of Kyoto for a feed, as dusk sets in.

As the sun below the horizon on another day, the twisting alleys of Kyoto come alive, transforming into a labrinth of almost haunted nooks and paths, punctuated by the welcoming glow of restaurant lanterns, beckoning diners into the cheery warmth of a noodle house or sushi bar. Occasionally a geisha glides past, seeming to float over the rough cobblestones as she moves to her next appointment.


One of the things Japanese love is these cook-your-own joints where they slap a glorified bunsen burner down in front of you along with a pile of meat and veges, and then leave you too it to create your own culinary masterpiece. Unfortunately, bunsen burner is apt a term here, given that with Rock at the helm things quickly began to resemble a chemistry experiement from Mr Biddick's class. In other words, a disaster. Oh well, it had to be tried, or so one rationalises as one departs with a hefty chunk of yen for... well... a bowl of boiled cabbage and a few chunks of over-cooked beef. Thus ended Day 5.