Friday, June 04, 2010

France Part 4: Tour de France

Buckle up folks, it's time to hit the road. And we do mean buckle up. On the whole France may be content to languidly stroll from cafe to cafe, but put a steering wheel and a gear stick in their hands and it's game on. In hindsight, choosing to exit Paris in morning rush hour in a brand new car probably doesn't rank up there with the theory of relativity or the 5th symphony as far as inspired ideas go.

But lo and behold miracles do happen. After coming within half a baguette's length of wiping out in the middle of the Champs-Élysées of all places, the maniacal drivers and bright lights of Paris finally fade into the distance.

This is more like it. Peace. Quiet. Lush fields scattered with tiny villages and not a car in sight. You run more risk of bumping into your friendly local bovine than some lunatic Frenchmen behind the wheel of a screeching Citroen.

First stop is the quaint village of Giverny. This isn't just any village mind you, this is the site of perhaps the most famous garden in the world: Monet's country retreat. You might not have seen photos of it before, but you've certainly seen pictures. Water lilies? The Japanese bridge? Not ringing a bell? Ok, here's a hint - there once was a time long ago when artistic expression involved more than 140 characters.



It's a bit hard to keep up the poor struggling artist charade when you've got digs like this. Nice to see the rare case of an artist enjoying the fruits of his labor whilst not dead, missing a body part, or interred in a mad house.

Lose the glasses dude, how can you translate the vibrant colors to canvas when you're preening around like a mademoiselle. Actually, probably better not to lose Mei's glasses, the guillotines in Musee d'Orsay are still a little too close for comfort.

Mei demonstrates how it's actually done. The pose, not the guillotining. She's saving that in case Rock dares to scratch the car.

Where's that Impressionism Photoshop filter when I need it?

I don't think Monet was much of a people person, judging by his portfolio. Best get out of the way.

It may not be the legendary bridge, but it's still not a bad spot for a quick sketch.

Impressionism gives way to pointillism.

The kind of spot that makes you want to set up an easel and start putting brush to canvas. Until the smell of turps starts wafting this way...


Seems it's not quite water lily season yet. Lucky we can just wander down to the Met any time we want to see them.

On the most famous bridge of them all. Now even more famous after getting a coveted spot on J00ster.

Well, the color is fast, but that's about it. Then again, even a Ferrari would handle like a sloth with Rock at the wheel.

Next pit stop, the historic city of Caen. Or more importantly, the historic keep of Caen.

Fortunately someone had the good sense to mount the canon on an angle. Blasting down your local chapel probably isn't the greatest way to claim the righteous high ground.

Draw bows!

No way! I didn't know the Heisman was doing a world tour. Somehow I think Mark Ingram versus Thierry Henry is a no contest in these parts. Ingram has a long way to go before he masters the writhe on the ground in agony technique.

The old city of Caen. Actually there's so many old cities in this country, perhaps it's easier just to identify the new cities.

Quick, raise the drawbridge. I'm not sharing my patisserie with the convoy from the East. Unless they come bearing fried rice to barter.

The good thing about French towns is the old streets are invariably closed to cars. This is a particularly good thing when Rock is in the country. Unless you want to sip your Bordeaux off what's left of his bumper.


But let's face it, while impressionist gardens and old castles are cool, there's really only one goal that matters for the day. Make that one goal that matters for the whole trip. And no, it's not testing every patisserie between Paris and the sea.

Watching the mystical fortress of Mont Saint-Michel float out of the evening mist, silhouetted against the dying rays of the sun as it slips away to a watery grave deep in the Atlantic, is one of the world's great travel experiences.

There's something eerie about the calm that surrounds the ancient ramparts as dusk merges imperceptibly into night.

It's almost too quiet. Just the whispering lap of the receding tide and the echo of a gull somewhere far above the glistening quicksand and tidal estuaries that stretch out to the foot of the fortress.

It's easy to imagine a thousand years slipping by as easily as the tide slides out with the setting sun.

We might as well be in a different world. Outside the rough hewn walls of this stone cocoon the boundary between land and sea gradually blends into the encroaching blackness.

Time to break the spell. Here come the tourists.

You wonder if the archers got a bit bored. When you're surrounded by a mile of quicksand in all directions, the best target practice you get is taking pot shots at passing fish.

Epic.

We ride for Minas Tirith! It's not hard to see where Peter Jackson's inspiration came from. Now if we can avoid the flaming dude as he runs by and hurls himself off the ledge we should be in good shape.


The boundary between man and nature has blurred over the eons. The spires of the abbey seem to morph out of the very rock itself.

Cozy inns and hearty taverns line the narrow path that hugs the base of the island and then slowly spirals up to the keep.

Magnifique!



The downside of falling under the spell of the island is that when you suddenly realize it's 10 o'clock every restaurant within 20 km has shut down. Fortunately a kindly waiter takes pity and dishes out a leftover loaf. Bread never tasted so good.

Last one out pull up the drawbridge.

The light of the moon is all there is to guide those who choose to linger in the ancient alleyways as they merge into the shadows of the towering ramparts.

Words and photos are inadequate media to express the magnificent loneliness of a city almost suspended in space. Just go there.

France Part 3: Paris Encore

Finally, a city so big it can't fit in one blog post. Day 2 in Paris dawns a little nippy and a little wet. The perfect kind of day for a bit of museum hopping. Assuming we ever get to the museum - it's easy to get sidetracked when every block has a new, or rather old, sight.

The inside-out Pompidou Center. Looks like Rock's shirt most mornings.

Mei gets up close and personal with the locals. Parlez vous anglais big guy? No? Parlez vous chinois? Hmmm, this could be a short conversation.

Clearly something was lost in translation. Come on man, we did come and bail you guys out twice in the same century. Yeah, yeah, I know you gave us a statue but that was ages ago.

After a while the churches all start blending together. Bit like J00ster posts really.

The mighty Louvre. You could spend a whole day in here and only see a fraction of it. Or you could spend half a day in here and see a fraction of a fraction, but still have time for a patisserie or two afterward. I think we all know the answer to that one.

It's a bit smaller than expected. Ah em, Mona Lisa we're talking about here folks. Rock puts his extensive art history training to use by expertly pointing out the extensive use of sfumato. Too bad it turns out to be a reflection in the glass. No wonder the scholarship examiners where unmoved.

You know you've seen one too many triptychs when the camera lens begins to wander back outside. Why look at that, it's cleared right up. Let's continue to feign interest 17th Century Dutch Masters for another half hour, and then hit the road. In the meantime, you can continue to feign interest in this blog.

The problem with putting art in rooms like this is that it's hard to work out where the wall ends and the artwork starts.

The J00ster Gallery doesn't seem to be attracting quite the same crowds as Leonardo's digs. In fact, the visitor count rivals that of this illustrious URL.

The steep hills and cobblestones of the bohemian Montmarte. Through the ages this little slice of Paris has been the haunt of artists, magicians, and performers, all seeking inspiration in the unlikely juxtaposition of narrow alleyways and sweeping vistas.

The real Moulin Rouge is just about as underwhelming as the movie that bears its name. A dingy nightclub living off a name and not much else.

As far as picnic spots go, I think we're onto a winner here. A crusty loaf with freshly sliced jamon and fromage tastes even better when the Basilica of the Sacré Cœur is looming majestically overhead.

Paris as far as the eye can see.

The final push. Sure there's a few steps, but does that really necessitate the construction of an elaborate Funicular, or cable car, to transport tourists to the top? What is this, America? Needless to say, Rock didn't see the value in swapping a few Euro for a 30 second ride.



The backstreets of Montmarte, away from the hubbub of tourists, give a fleeting glance of a world that measures time in centuries, not 24 hour news cycles.

So much for away from the hubbub of tourists. "Air conditioned" isn't exactly textbook French.

You can't go anywhere in Paris without seeing the Eiffel Tower. Which makes things slow going seeing as Rock never misses an opportunity for another angle.

Montmarte comes alive as the sun begins to sink below the tiled rooftops. No wonder the artsy types set up shop here when they weren't busy chopping off their own body parts or checking in to the local lunatic asylum.

The secluded Place des Vosges, a perfectly symmetric square hidden from the bustle of the surrounding streets. It's a great place for relaxing. Or so Lonely Planet says - this being a J00ster holiday, the closest one gets to relaxing is the 45 second break to change camera batteries before marching out for the next destination. (Are you sure you're not getting yourself mixed up with twoPhat again? --ed.)

One never tires of Paris. Unless of course one is reading about it for the third time on a blog.

Sunset over the Seine. Or it would be if the sun would ever go down. One of the best features of springtime Paris is the fact the sun doesn't go down till after 10pm ever night. More daylight means more pictures, which means more bloggage, which means more filler comments.


Notre Dame at her most resplendent, bathed in golden light as the sun sinks towards the horizon. No wonder Monet set up shop here.


Guess what, it's food time again. Tonight's dining spot is a quaint bistro on the picturesque Île de la Cité, better known for being the island Notre Dame is perched on.

Bon appetit!


A fitting way to finish Paris on a high note. Assuming of course we take a bit of poetic license and conveniently forget the drive out of town tomorrow morning...