Monday, June 07, 2010
France Part 6: Chateau hunting
Better fuel up for a big day. Today we go chateau hunting. Fortunately our B&B comes well equip in that regard. I guess this is the continent where continental breakfast was invented.
Hard to summon up the motivation to roll out. Almost as hard as it is to summon up the motivation to tackle this mammoth blog post.
You think 15th century is old? Pshaw! I give you 11th century and still going strong.
We're definitely in Mei country now. Mei's seasoned eye evaluates the 2010 vintage.
Moulin Mei swings into action. Ironically the moulin, once so common but now almost gone, are making a big comeback. In the form of mighty wind turbines that are springing all along the windy ridges surrounding the valley.
The tiny village of Parny is an oasis in a sea of vineyards. Hang on, when you're surrounded by vineyards do you really need an oasis?
This treehugger seems to have confused... well... a tree with the nuclear power plant down the other end of the valley.
Chateau number 1. It does have an actual name, but by the time you get to the end of the valley they all start to blur together.
It wouldn't be a chateau without a fair maiden to keep the knights on their toes.
Today's lunch stop is the bustling town of Chinon. Like any good town in this valley, it's nestled in the shadow of a ginormous castle. Which can certainly wait until after shrimp salad.
Climbing up to the castle is hard work, even without 40 kg of armor. That must be why they built a brand new glass elevator. It's transparent, so it doesn't spoil the view you see. The flaw in that logic is that it's only transparent if it's not stuffed to the brim with fat yankees.
The old red inn is a fine spot to grab an ale before heading for the battlements. By ale, Rock is of course referring to to that fine sugary brew with the dynamic ribbon device (tm) from across the pond.
The lower wall of Chinon castle. From up here it's almost like looking back straight into history. The tiled roofs and stone bridges haven't changed in five hundred years.
You want to take my grapes and my patisseries? We'll you gotta come through me first!
Where's my sniper bow when I need it? I dare say I can nail that pirate down there to the mast of his bark.
Mei surveys her domain. Seems the shoe budget is getting low. Time to tax those lazy peasants some more.
The king, on the other hand, is more interested in whether the royal cook has finished the latest batch of steak frites. If not, off with his head!
You just don't get better real estate than this.

Get the boiling oil ready, I spy an intruder down there! Say what? Darn it, I told you not to waste it all on French fries!
Little Miss Piggy meets her biggest fan. Mmmm... pork ribs.
Thank goodness for the castle, it seems to have kept the marauding Britons from stealing our croissants.
What's this? Could it be yet another chateau? Why it is indeed. It turns out there's over 300 of them dotted along the valley.
Next stop the busy university town of Tours. It doesn't matter where you live, students are all the same. Only here they procrastinate between assignments in airy cafes instead of huddled together in a frigid flat warmed only by the wall of CPUs humming away in the background.
As the J00sters progress down the valley, one can't help but notice the chateau are increasing in grandeur. The Chateau d'Azay-le-Rideau is a case in point. How to differentiate one's extravagant castle from Le Joneses down the river? How about a decorative moat?

Darn it, it seems it doesn't matter what century you live in, the rich dudes always get the good digs.
Her Royal Highness, the Princess of Wuhan presides over he subjects with an iron fist. No! There shall be no more baguettes today! Now drive faster! I'm tired! It's too hot in here! Are we there yet!
This is as close as Mei will get to holding the keys to a castle.
Ok, ticked another one off the list, what's next? Ah, it must be the famed Chateau de Chenonceau. This one starts off with the old hedge maze trick. A good way to cut down the flood of tourists.
Even the out buildings are bigger than most houses.
If you want to really elevate your property to the top of the list, a front lawn isn't enough. Anything short of a formal garden just won't cut it.
Bah, anyone can build a chateau on a plot of land. Well mine is built over water. Take that!
Looks like some of the servants are playing king and queen for the day. Let them have their moment of fun before herding them back down into the latrine pit.
And to think they didn't have ride-on mowers back then.

No wonder all the women back then were fat and ugly. All they did was lounge around in gardens all day.
Room with a view. Nothing like waking up to the sound of the river below. Also convenient for emptying chamber pots. Perferably downstream from the kitchen.
Rock keeps a close eye on his loaves. Can't have a castle without non-stop feasting. Or a French road trip for that matter.
Hard to imagine the ladies ever found such... uhm... stylish garb attractive. I guess everyone likes a man with a hairdo.
Architects back then shared a fascination with the art of the olde world. Which back then was actually somewhere other than France.
Chateau envy makes one thirsty. Look on the bright side, the blokes who lived back then may have had magnificent palaces, but coke hadn't been invented yet. Take that!
Talk about saving the best for last. The almost impossibly lavish Chateau de Chambord is a fitting finale for two days of cruising the Loire Valley. And almost unbelievably, it earns France her fourth jump! Critics are stunned, many of whom had accepted they'd never see such lavish praise in their lifetime. Or even in their children's lifetime.
For a residences this big, the attention to detail is phenomenal. Nothing can be added without an ornamental flourish.
Nothing like a couple of armed guards to keep the tourists off the grass. And I'm not talking batons and pepper spray either. Try three foot broadswords instead.
Maybe if I wait a few days the Euro will have fallen far enough for me to hoist the stars and stripes instead.
Room with a view II. It's always nice when your house is so big you can see bits of it out the window.
This chateau is so big they use the spare rooms as an art gallery. Mei tries to perfect her manners in time for the royal banquet. Turns out they weren't needed after all since Rock took her to the local chinois takeaway shop instead.
The central spire is where the famous double helix staircase culminates. More on that later. From there you can step out onto the expansive roof deck and engage in some royal sunbathing.
Rock spies a fine architectural feature worthy of further study. Actually he's just trying to make sure that pigeon doesn't get the wrong idea.
Finally, a house without a shoe storage problem.
The famous double helix staircase. Reputed to come straight from the drawings of Leonardo da Vinci himself. Like a giant strand of DNA, the marbled elegance of not one but two grand staircases looping around each other is a sight to behold.
Our own chateau for the night in the little town of Orleans. Fine, it's not a chateau, it's more like a 2 star hotel. But with a view like this, one can't complain. Ok, one can always complain about something if one's name is Mei.
Mademoiselle, can I proffer you a towel? It may not be Chambord, but the smallest room in the house has a nice view.

Sunday, June 06, 2010
France Part 5: Voyage sur la route
But wait, there's more! Some places are too cool to do all in one day. A bit like this blog really. You just have to keep coming back for more. Assuming you come back that is.
The Mont by day is a whole different experience. The ghosts of ages past have slipped back into the ancient dungeons and caverns deep within the heart of the monolithic fortress, content to bide their time until darkness once again claims the keep.
Time to enter the castle itself. With commanding views like this, it's hard to imagine anyone managing to muster even a perfunctory assault on the island. Plus they've got Rock to keep watch.
Hidden in the heart of the foreboding structure is an oasis of tranquility - the abbey garden.
And hidden in the abbey garden is the reason it isn't an oasis of tranquility today.
Onwards and upwards. The spires that mark the pinnacle of the superstructure seem to stretch endlessly into the crisp spring sky.
Mei does her best to winch up today's breakfast. Alas, the wheel won't budge. Back in the day it apparently took two prisoners running in the wheel hamster style to pull up the day's supplies.
The quick way down for those who don't want to wait for the line of old timers to slowly stagger their way back down to the tour bus from whence they came.
The spiral staircase to the dungeon winds its way down into the very heart of the living rock that forms the foundation for the weighty stone above. With any luck, there's a dragon's lair down there.
It's not all battlements and gory torture chambers. Even the staunchest knights need somewhere to grab a hearty meal when their lonely vigil on the windswept towers comes to an end.
A maiden sneaks her way up a hidden alley. Such subterfuge can mean only one thing - she's trying to jump the queue to steal a coveted booking at La Mère Poulard, where they still cook up local specialties the same way they did way back in 1879 when the doors first opened.
Voila! Dinner is served. Actually, it's breakfast, but don't let that stop you tucking into a creamy Normandy lobster stew.
The lamb that grazes on the salt marshes that surround the island are famed for their unique flavor. Needless to say such subtleties are lost on Rock as he chows it down.
No way! A third jump is awarded in a single trip! Even condors soaring though rarefied Andean air and the epic ruins of Machu Picchu couldn't garner the coveted three jumps. Then again, the latter was at a distinct disadvantage - it's much easier to leap when your stomach is full of succulent Atlantic lobster rather than the dessicated carcass of some unfortunate llama.
But let's not dally folks, it's time to hit the road. A long day of driving ahead. Even with a sweet 130 kmh speed limit, getting around this country takes time. Especially with Rock at the wheel.
Stop number one is the little town of Dinan, a left over relic from medieval times. Think winding cobble streets, timber framed houses, open sewers. Ok, the last one thankfully failed to make it out of the middle ages. Although they could make a comeback if Rock fails to find the toilettes publiques on his crumpled map.
An ancient viaduct soars over the working waterway that has long been the town's livelihood. Actually it's been converted to a road, but bridges are 10 euro cents a dozen, while aqueducts are something else.
Things change slowly in these parts. Which must explain why it's so darn hard to find a wifi hot spot.
Nothing beats sipping a brew in an outdoor cafe on a balmy spring day. There's something to be said for a country where work is what you do between cafe breaks. Assuming you're not on strike on said day.
I wonder if they stock quality Hallensteins apparel?
Road rules in France are a tad different. There aren't any. Except for the rule that cyclists always have right of way. This is, after all, the country to shuts down for an entire month in summer to follow Le Tour.
The quaint village of Quimper marks the half way point in the mad dash from the coast to the lush Loire Valley, and serves as a perfect place to overnight.
Quimper seems to have the highest creperie per capita count in all of France.
The simplest crepe is the best. Plain, with a dash of sugar. And washed down with a steaming cup of strong French roast.
Day two in the road trip sees a brief (ok it wasn't brief, it looked a lot closer on Google maps) detour to see the seaside town of Saint-Nazaire. As a general J00ster rule of thumb, the more photos you see of something or somewhere, the better it is. Case in point: Mei appears in on average 87.9% of all photos, hence she can claim J00ster awesomeness status. Saint-Nazaire on the other hand appears in... uhm... one photo. 'Nuff said.
Moving on, Angiers sees team J00ster right back on track. Marking the gateway to the fertile lands and fairytale Chateau of the famed Loire Valley, it's no wonder they build a big ass castle to keep the baddies out.
Seems this one somehow slipped through the defenses. There be magiks at work here.
Narrow lane-ways give way to spacious promenades. We are indeed approaching the playground of Kings.
One no longer needs to worry about vats of boiling oil making their way down from the castle walls that surround much of the town.
Mei proves she'd be short even in medieval times.
Aussie aussie aussie, oi oi oi! Unfortunately closer inspection reveals the pub has been long shuttered. That's the downside of trying to peddle Fosters in a land where you can get a velvet drop of Bordeaux for under 2 Euro.
The bank of the picturesque Maine river is the perfect place to enjoy a well deserved patisserie break. Ok, it's not really well deserved given the last one was only 20 minutes ago, but hey, it still tastes good.
Rock would gladly swap hair raising French motoring for a more leisurely form of transport. Mei, on the other hand, enjoys air conditioning and a booming stereo.
At last, the expansive waters of the mighty Loire. Not only is it France's longest river, it's also a World Heritage Area. As it winds its way through the verdant valley it meanders past fertile vineyards and spectacular chateau on its inexorable march towards the Atlantic.

Finally the little town of Saumur appears on the horizon. Or rather, the spectacular chateau that looms over the village does.
Best digs of the trip, a genuine 15th century chateau. You know you're a long way from New York when the most expedient way to get your baggage to the carriage house that doubles as your room is a little baggage wagon.
Whew, hauling 10 pairs of Mei's shoes is hard work. No wonder our little Fiat was huffing and puffing just to get up the last few hills.
One is a bit apprehensive about where to put the coke bottle when told that the table dates at least back to the 17th century. In fact, the whole room is older than the nation of J00ster's citizenship. Incredible.
Eve welcomes each new visitor to the chateau with a barking welcome. Promptly followed by trying to cajole them into a spot of belly scratching.
Somehow I don't think this part of the chateau can date back to the 15th century. But this is one anachronism Mei is more than happy to live with.
Nice! It's hard to feel rushed when the surrounds have been just hangin' for the past half century. Unless of course dinner is beckoning.
Time to hit the town. After a few photo stops that is.
The four towers of the Saumur chateau glow pink in the setting sun.

This is where the hedge fund managers of yesteryear lived.

Saumur by night. The quiet cobblestone streets are bathed in the light of the few creperies and bistros that cater for the night crowd. Which in France pretty much means those out after 9pm.

Stop number one is the little town of Dinan, a left over relic from medieval times. Think winding cobble streets, timber framed houses, open sewers. Ok, the last one thankfully failed to make it out of the middle ages. Although they could make a comeback if Rock fails to find the toilettes publiques on his crumpled map.
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