Monday, September 21, 2015

Howdy Y'all Part 2: In Pursuit of the Perfect Peach

It's day two and the grinding Siege of Charleston shows no signs of breaking. Say what? It's already over? Ah, that explains why the Stars and Stripes is flying instead of the Union Jack. Should have known those Pommies would roll over, just like their rugby team.


Jolly good old sport, the Redcoats beat such a hasty retreat they left behind their morning tea.




Angel Oak is a living legend in these parts, and he doesn't even play in the SEC. Reputed to be over 1,500 years old, the giant tree is so big it's slowly imploding under it's own weight into a spiderweb of branches that mostly slither along the ground.


It's just like Avatar, except without the annoying Aussie and the sappy let's-all-hug-a-tree-and-then-go-for-botox Hollywood sermon. Oh, and the chick doesn't have blue skin either, what a turn-off.


Next stop, uhm, Rue de Peach? Savannah, Georgia is about as far from the snarky Northeastern stereotype of alligator-wrestling rednecks as you can get. Even the haughty New York Times deigned to publish a 36 Hours in Savannah. And now Savannah's rebirth is complete with a coveted J00ster write up. Welcome to the big leagues!



Savannah's trademark squares, scattered every few blocks throughout the city, are an oasis from the sticky humidity. The Spanish moss draped over almost every tree literally sucks the moisture right out of the air. Just like this blog sucks the life right out of the internet.



Go anywhere in hipster America these days and you'll find the bloody Aussies got there first. The Collins Quarter is a classic Melbourne cafe that could have been teleported right off of Little Collins Street. In fact it was.



It takes a brave Australian to take on America at their own game. But hey, if Jarryd Hayne can do it, why not? With a dazzling avocado smash and silky flat white handling skills you'll make the roster in no time.



If you ignore the cars, and the non-corseted lady, you wouldn't be able to place what century you're in.



Unlike most of America, Savannah is the kind of town you can actually walk around. Nothing like being 300 years ahead of the curve.



When they said southern belle, they may not have been talking about Guangzhou.


For the price of a Manhattan shoe box you can get a palace down here. Kind of makes you wonder if New Yorkers are really such savvy arbitrageurs after all.



Georgians love their peaches, especially when sipped as an iced tea on a breezy porch.



Just in case anyone thinks that too-big-to-fail is a recent invention, here's the Cotton Exchange. This street was once called the Wall Street of the South. You can probably guess how that ended.



Looks like someone is trying to ensnare one of those dapper cotton futures traders.


The Savannah waterfront was once the busiest Atlantic ports in the country. But then the boll weevil came along and ate all the cotton. Now the strip is dominated by tourists from the cruise ships eating all the burgers.



In most of middle America the Greyhound bus terminal on the outskirts of town is the place you end up at when you're (a) running from something, usually the law; (b) stoned; or (c) both of the above. Not in Savannah. The Grey, a new-Southern restaurant in a reclaimed Greyhound bus terminal is the hottest ticket in town.



Now boarding from gate 2, the overnight express to irony, skinny jeans, and hand-crafted bitters.



There's more to Southern fusion than dipping your biscuit in gravy.



Because this is the south, life is divided into eating and getting ready to eat. Wiley's Championship BBQ is, like The Grey, hidden away in the most unexpected of places, in this case a nondescript strip mall.


One quickly learns not to judge a pitmaster by his shopfront.


When preparing for a siege it's always wise to stop by Wiley's on the way to pick up the cannonballs.



Fort Pulaski was the site of a 112 day siege during the Civil War, which only ended after an epic 30 hour bombardment by Union troops from the surrounding marshes. These days they could just cut the broadband cable and have an unconditional surrender within the hour.


The Avenue of Oaks at Boone Hall plantation is perhaps most famous for featuring in Gone with the Wind.


And here comes Clark Gable.


Boone Hall Plantation offers a glimpse of what life was like in a different world, where a fragile veneer of civilization for the lucky few was built on the the misery of many. The contrast between the spartan slaves' quarters and the glorious antebellum mansion is a stark reminder of troubled times, the echos of which still linger over 150 years later.




Frankly my dear, I could go for some fired chicken.



This was before they told us the swamp is absolutely teeming with alligators.




Back in Charleston, the uber-hip Zero George hotel offers guests the chance to see what life was like in one of the city's fabulous town houses.



Peach tea anyone?



Butler, I'll take my fried chicken on the porch, thanks.




So this is what life was like for the Masters of the cotton trading Universe? Then, just like today, a little bug is all it takes to bring down the market. But who cares, down here a knock on the door from the SEC means Saban wants your kid's signature.



Sunday, September 20, 2015

Howdy Y'all Part 1: Deuce, Strike, and Fried Chicken

Labor Day, that glorious celebration of no parental leave, health insurance that vanishes with your outsourced middle management job, and Piketty's dismal r is greater than g equation, marks the official end of summer in the Big Apple. Luckily the hazy days of late summer are also marked by two of New York's biggest sporting events: the U.S. Open at Flushing Meadows and the business end of the Yankees' chase for yet another pennant.


Looks like old man Federer left his geriatric racket behind.



As the sun sets over the glittering Manhattan skyline it feels like the whole world is converging on the fabled center court of Arthur Ashe. Sampras, Agassi, Graf, Federer: legends are born under the blazing floodlights of the night session at the U.S. Open.


In case of alien attack try the Mercedes corporate box, the odds are good that Tommy Lee Jones and Will Smith are already on the premise. All the other celebs are too, but do you really want to leave the world's fate in the hands of a Kardashian?


With the Djoker making quick work of his hapless opposition on his way to the 2015 U.S. Open title it's time to move from the hard courts to the pitcher's mound. Except there's an ice cream stand in the way. Not a mention a lavish seafood buffet, burger bar, and roast beef carvery. The Legends Suite at Yankee Stadium is all the proof you need that salary caps are for losers. Yankees to Cincinnati: our oyster tower is worth more than your starting lineup.


Thanks to JT for the best seats in the stadium, to get any closer to the action you'd have to be on roids.



New York loves a good redemption story. Plus, centaurs sure do know how to rock the pinstripes.



Facing the first pitch of his first at bat Arod casually strides up to the plate, casts a disdainful eye at the mere human on the pitching mound, and blasts a monster homer deep into the balmy New York evening. As Trump would say, he's a winner, and New York likes winners.


See you in the playoffs TwoPhatKiwis!


A present from Brett Gardner!


How ya'll doing? With the long weekend's sporting festivities wrapped up it's time to head down south where the chicken is fried, the folks are friendly, and the peach iced tea is waiting on a breezy porch. Welcome to Charleston, South Carolina ya'll


Eating for two never looked this good. Charleston has become something of a foodie destination, who's ready to go foraging for some grits?


The best way to see the town hasn't really changed in 300 years. Hitch up the carriage folks and remember to tip your tricorn hat to the ladies.



Main Street USA. Back in the day Charleston was the richest port per capita in the U.S. and it still shows in the immaculate colonial architecture lining the streets.



Everyone comes to Charleston to ogle the lavish southern mansions. There's a serious case of my porch is bigger than your porch going on down here.



Heads up lads, this is Southern Belle territory.




Who needs a Telsa charging station when you can open a bag of oats?



Nothing says hipster like The Ordinary, an old bank converted into one of the town's foodie hot spots. It's a win-win because after imbibing a dozen oysters and a cocktail or two here you won't have any cash left that's needing a bank vault anyway.



The best way to work off a pile of deep fried southern goodness is to stroll the mansion-lined streets of the old downtown. Carbo-loading is easy when everything comes with a biscuit and a side of grits.




Evidence that SEC football wasn't always the official religion in these parts.



Now that's some Southern Hospitality ladies!



Husk, widely considered the restaurant that launched Charleston into the foodie stratosphere, is still going strong a decade after it kicked off the town's dining revolution. Their bar next door, a moody, wood-paneled speakeasy, is the kind of place where cotton futures and secession mixed with bourbon and cigars.


Reputably one of the top 20 burgers in America. No arguments here.


Reputably two of the top 20 burger-eaters in America.



Ka mate! Ka mate! Strange place to find the silver fern, deep in SEC territory. The All Blacks? Are they from Conference USA?