Monday, October 21, 2013

An Upstate of Mind

Manhattanites, when asked where they're from, tend to say New York and then revert to a well-practiced haughty stare when it's followed by the inevitable next question: which part? As if there's any other part. Other than the honorary borough of Brooklyn, and certain satellite territories surrounding hipster beer gardens in Queens, New York is Manhattan and Manhattan is New York.
 

However, every year when the trees upstate explode into a riotous array of color and the headless horseman of Sleepy Hollow is on the prowl, even those for whom Central Park is more than enough wilderness are willing to venture north.


A perfect day for a wedding in the historic Tappan Hill Mansion, perched above the fertile Hudson Valley on the former estate of Mark Twain.


The new husband and wife are escorted out into the crisp autumn night under the sizzling light of a hundred sparklers waved by the guests. Hope the veil isn't flammable.



First stop on a whirlwind Hudson Valley mini road trip: the Walkway over the Hudson. In case you didn't guess, it's a walkway over... wait for it... the Hudson.


Actually, that doesn't quite do it justice. It's more like the High Line on steroids. An old railway bridge over the Hudson has been converted into a spectacular pedestrian-only walkway suspended high above the mighty river.


All rivers lead to Manhattan.


There's an ordinary car bridge over there. Boring. They don't sell t-shirts about a car bridge.


Minnewaska State Park is one of the gems of upstate New York, especially during the brief but stunning fall leaf-watching season. It's only an hour and a half from the Big Apple, but it feels a world away.



You know it's a good spot when it's being compared to Central Park, and not in the usual dripping with sarcasm "it's not exactly Central Park" kind of way.
 


One of the advantages of apartment living is that acres of leaves are something to be enjoyed instead of raked into piles.



Believe it or not, the rest of the state isn't the giant leech the tabloids would have you believe, gorging itself on the grudging largess of Manhattan's long-suffering taxpayers.


The fact we've been walking the wrong way for the last hour has got to have something to do with the fact the trail is hidden under the leaves, and nothing to do with Rock's navigation skills.



One of these rocks is left over from the Permian Era around 270 million years ago, and one of them might as well be that old given his gimpy knees.




There's nothing quite like autumn in the Northeast. Jack O'Lanterns flickering merrily on the stoop of Upper East Side townhouses, the procession of weirdos that is the annual Halloween parade winds its way though the Village, and every tree does its best to outshine its neighbor. How very New York.



The hike to Lake Minnewaska offers epic views over the flaming valley floor out to the Catskills in the distance.




Lake Minnewaska on a chilly autumn day. There's definitely more than a hint of winter on the wind sweeping in over the lake.





New Platz, the little village at the base of the park, turns out to be a surprisingly pumping dinner destination thanks to the SUNY campus up the road. In fact, Main Street wouldn't be out of place in the East Village, with its eclectic mix of cafes that double as guitar shops and farm-to-table bistros.


Your one-stop-shop for guitar restringing and cold brew pour-overs.

Friday, October 18, 2013

China Part 8: Tales from the Dumpling Dynasty

One way to describe Taiwan is an intriguing cross between China and Japan. Certainly that's true geographically and geopolitically, but there's one area where they fall firmly in the latter camp: their love of Mechs. Seriously, how many countries open their design festival with a giant mech?
 

Adaptive City is a showcase of cutting-edge Taiwanese urban design, housed appropriately in a row of reclaimed post-industrial warehouses.


Taipei Change? It's pretty darn good just the way it is, but I guess it's worth a shot.


So, let's get to brainstorming folks. How can one inspire urban renewal? Got it, let's use a socially-empowered funding paradigm to disrupt the status quo with a team of giant mechs that stomp out urban decay like it's a Dunkin Donuts in Williamsburg.


Funny how graffiti becomes street art once it's surrounded by pop-up cold brew coffee stands instead of burnt-out cars and rusting machinery.


A timely reminder, since he was beginning to think he was in South Williamsburg.



If there's one thing they like more than mechs, it's Hello Kitty. As the unofficial mascot of the nation she appears on everything, from key chains to A330s. Welcome aboard the KittyJet.


In fact, she's so important in popular culture the festival has an entire hall devoted entirely to different iterations of the famous cat.


It's only a matter of time before we have KittyMech.


Since we're on the subject of Taiwanese icons, Din Tai Fung is the best export since those sticks of Gigabyte DDR RAM that powered Melchior's inner beast.



Who are you kidding? You know you'll end up ticking all the boxes before this meal is over.



You're never too young for your first xiaolongbao. Or too old for your one thousandth.



The masters at work. Wrapping steaming soup up in tissue-thin rice paper is just as hard as it sounds.


The Red House Theater is yet another venue that has been converted into a collection of independent designer boutiques. How many designers do they have on this island?


Look who's jealous that Hello Kitty is stealing all the kitty attention.


Good try, but you're nothing without the stripes.



About the only place in the whole city that hasn't been commandeered by designers. Then again, these intricate panels didn't carve themselves.
 

Where's the gift shop? I need my KittyMonk collectible action figure.



Is that Shibuya Crossing? No, can't be, it's too sparsely populated.



 
Luckily the bizarrely named Addiction Aquatic Development stands out for more than just its name. In a city brimming with edgy urban design this one ups the ante to a whole new level.


What was once your typical grimy fish market has been transformed into a one stop tank-to-table seafood tasting experience.



Diners congregate around long communal tables whilst the rock-star chefs dart between the aquariums and their sizzling woks, working their magic with the day's finest catch.

 
 

Lame, if they didn't stomp the grapes in front of you it doesn't count as fresh around here.



In a trip filled with superior dining, this one might just claim the prize. Or at least stave off elimination until next week's episode.


With all this Hello Kitty worship, old General Chiang is feeling a little left out. Must be why they built him this gigantic memorial hall, complete with wax recreations of his thrilling exploits. Like signing some mundane documents at a big desk. No wonder Hello Kitty is winning the day.



With a march like that, no wonder the Commies won.


The arc of the moral universe is long, but it bends towards another shutdown.


I wonder if the General has a bubble tea shop on his expansive estate?



Things are looking up, the rain has stayed away. Other than a welcome Rain drop from across the Strait.



Someone has a bad case of Tiananmen envy. Just be glad you don't have to be preserved in a glass case.




S.T.A.Y. apparently stands for Simple Table Alleno Yannick. Because nothing says simple like a name so long you have to shorten it to a four letter acronym.



Still, who's complaining? It seems simple means something different to the French.


Bon appetite!


No way! The man voted the Sexiest Chef Alive is actually in town today and not only is he overseeing the kitchen, he's actually manning the grill. In between working the floor that is.



In a lucky turn of events, Typhoon Usagi veers south at the last moment and Taipei is spared a direct hit. That can only mean one thing: it's finally time to ascend Taipei 101. If the elevators can get them up after that meal.



You can almost see China from here. Oh hang on, sorry Beijing, that's China right down there. My bad.




You think they'll give you the corner office?



Turns out we won't need this bad boy today. The tuned mass damper takes up over two stories, and acts as a counter-balance to minimize the swaying of the tower in high winds. Luckily those are blowing their way to Hong Kong now.




And that's a wrap folks. JFK is only six movies away.