Monday, October 21, 2013

An Upstate of Mind

Manhattanites, when asked where they're from, tend to say New York and then revert to a well-practiced haughty stare when it's followed by the inevitable next question: which part? As if there's any other part. Other than the honorary borough of Brooklyn, and certain satellite territories surrounding hipster beer gardens in Queens, New York is Manhattan and Manhattan is New York.
 

However, every year when the trees upstate explode into a riotous array of color and the headless horseman of Sleepy Hollow is on the prowl, even those for whom Central Park is more than enough wilderness are willing to venture north.


A perfect day for a wedding in the historic Tappan Hill Mansion, perched above the fertile Hudson Valley on the former estate of Mark Twain.


The new husband and wife are escorted out into the crisp autumn night under the sizzling light of a hundred sparklers waved by the guests. Hope the veil isn't flammable.



First stop on a whirlwind Hudson Valley mini road trip: the Walkway over the Hudson. In case you didn't guess, it's a walkway over... wait for it... the Hudson.


Actually, that doesn't quite do it justice. It's more like the High Line on steroids. An old railway bridge over the Hudson has been converted into a spectacular pedestrian-only walkway suspended high above the mighty river.


All rivers lead to Manhattan.


There's an ordinary car bridge over there. Boring. They don't sell t-shirts about a car bridge.


Minnewaska State Park is one of the gems of upstate New York, especially during the brief but stunning fall leaf-watching season. It's only an hour and a half from the Big Apple, but it feels a world away.



You know it's a good spot when it's being compared to Central Park, and not in the usual dripping with sarcasm "it's not exactly Central Park" kind of way.
 


One of the advantages of apartment living is that acres of leaves are something to be enjoyed instead of raked into piles.



Believe it or not, the rest of the state isn't the giant leech the tabloids would have you believe, gorging itself on the grudging largess of Manhattan's long-suffering taxpayers.


The fact we've been walking the wrong way for the last hour has got to have something to do with the fact the trail is hidden under the leaves, and nothing to do with Rock's navigation skills.



One of these rocks is left over from the Permian Era around 270 million years ago, and one of them might as well be that old given his gimpy knees.




There's nothing quite like autumn in the Northeast. Jack O'Lanterns flickering merrily on the stoop of Upper East Side townhouses, the procession of weirdos that is the annual Halloween parade winds its way though the Village, and every tree does its best to outshine its neighbor. How very New York.



The hike to Lake Minnewaska offers epic views over the flaming valley floor out to the Catskills in the distance.




Lake Minnewaska on a chilly autumn day. There's definitely more than a hint of winter on the wind sweeping in over the lake.





New Platz, the little village at the base of the park, turns out to be a surprisingly pumping dinner destination thanks to the SUNY campus up the road. In fact, Main Street wouldn't be out of place in the East Village, with its eclectic mix of cafes that double as guitar shops and farm-to-table bistros.


Your one-stop-shop for guitar restringing and cold brew pour-overs.

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