Monday, July 20, 2009

Peru Part Dos: Arequipa - In the shadow of the apus

Hmph, give me a challenge! There's way too much oxygen down here! I'm king of the mountains! See me demolish this pisco sour - I'm going to do the same to the Inca Trail! Hire a porter? You're joking right? I could carry a small moon up such a cakewalk of a trail!

I put these in early so that readers have a large selection of famous last words to choose from. Take your pick.

But let's not jump ahead, back to the story: next stop, the mountain outpost of Arequipa, nestled between towering volcanic peaks at 2,830m above sea level. The perfect place to begin the mountain stages of le tour.

If there's a more stunning airport in all the world I've yet to see it. Unlike the good folks at our sister (brother?) publication http://twophatkiwis.blogspot.com/, who have not only seen it, but also the other 435 contenders. The mighty volcanic cones that surround the town seem to jut up from the very tarmac itself.

Let's roll out team! Jared thinks he knows the way to the best pisco sours in town. Rock thinks Jared knows nothing. Devan thinks Rock is lame. Rachy thinks such juvenile behaviour is detracting from the mission at hand. Mei doesn't think.

First stop on today's agenda: an old convent. Mei, through happy coincidence, finds herself rather suitably attired for such a destination. What we neglected to tell her was that the convent is actually still in operation, and actively seeking new recruits...

The tree of life. Ok, I made that up.

The tree of life. Ok, I made that up too.

If you're going to locked up all day to meditate, it might as well be in nice digs like this.

What is this, the Ritz Carlton of nunneries?

Rock and Jared search in vain for the illicit Coca Cola stash. Or perhaps for some modicum of class.

How very picturesque. It's almost like the nuns have nothing else to do other than arrange flowers and whitewash walls. Which, when you think about it, doesn't sound like such a bad life. Assuming they have cable tv in the back cloister.


You are now entering the red quarter. Convenient color-coded buildings mean it's hard to lose your way. Note hard is not the same as impossible. I shall say no more.



I don't think that 500 year old spout was designed to combat swine flu virii.

Too many smiles, not enough gasps. Clearly we haven't yet reached real altitude yet.

The problem with trying to compete for readers with the legendary http://twophatkiwis.blogspot.com/ is that their photographer is actually, like, good. Lucky this is the internet, where plagerisim is a way of life - if you can't compete, just rip off their shots.

The fountain of life. Ok, I made that up.

In the local Andean religion, a volcanic apu isn't what you get when everyone's favorite overqualified Springfield Seven Eleven owner loads up on too much chili at Mo's, it's actual a mountain god. The local Kechua worshipped the mighty volcanoes that cradle the town, and with vistas like this it's not hard to see why.

Ladies and gentlemen, please give it up for the Three Amigos (tm).

Manpower Down Under on tour. There's cool, and then there's cool. Watch out ladies, there's a new llama in town.


The problem with rooftop dining in this part of the world is it means another 3 metres less oxygen.

Every town in Peru has a central square and a church. Just like every J00ster post has a central filler comment. Yes you guessed it, this is it.

A dozen pisco sours later and what started out as a strapping young group of adventurers is reduced to a mere shadow of their former glory. Hur hur hur. One could use the same analogy to describe the evolution of this literary effort. One could also then apply the same hur hur hur idiom.
As the sun goes down, the colonial heart of the city comes to life. And not just 'cause all the restaurant touts come out to try to hassle their turistico prey into their joints.


The Two Amigos doesn't sound quite as cool. They don't look quite as cool either.

The Zig Zag combo - Alpaca, Ostrich, and Beef steaks. Spot the odd one out.

I'm so hungry I could eat a... Devan!

Enjoy the trappings of civilization while you can. Like bibs. And seats on your toilets.

I'm seeing a lot of appetite and a little desert.

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