Monday, September 27, 2010

Everest Expedition Part 4: Introducing the roof of the world

Home base for the next three days of acclimatization in the ancient city of Lhasa. Rock wonders if this is close enough to base camp to break out the provisions yet. That stash of Oreos is looking mighty good next to the dessicated pile of yak jerky that passes for trail food around here.

The cozy Tashi Choten guest house is hands down one of the best spots Team J00ster has ever strewn their suitcase contents over. Each room opens out onto a balcony overlooking the rustic central courtyard, from which the aroma of incense and yak butter tea wafts upwards. Mei uses her vantage point to scope out the dining area below for any leftover chili eggplant.

The first, but definitely not the last, sighting of the ubiquitous yak meat. From curries to jerky, tents to tourist photo ops, yaks are the lifeblood of a region where only the toughest survive. And believe me, tough is the operative word when it comes to yak meat...

Lhasa city old town is a dizzying maze of winding streets, jammed to the brim with markets and a steady stream of pilgrims serenely spinning their prayer wheels as they navigate the chaos around them. On the other hand, Rock doesn't so much navigate as bulldoze his way through the middle, just like... well your typical western tourist.

Mei demonstrates the best way to attract every pickpocket on the Barkor circuit.

When faced with the choice between three day old yak rump or three month old yak curd, Rock takes the weak option and heads for the coke stand.

Looks like the rain is clearing. This can mean only one thing: a filler comment about the weather...

First look at the ancient Johkang temple, the focal point of the Lhasa old town and a magnet for pilgrims from all corners of the land. Not to mention tourists.

What makes Lhasa such an incredible destination is that it is still a living, breathing city. Unlike many of the world's great travel destinations which are relics of a forgotten time - impressive yes, but still just glorified museum exhibits handed down through the eons - Lhasa is still... alive. Pilgrims still bow down on the age old stones in front of the temple, the scent of juniper incense still wafts through the narrow streets, prayer wheels still chant their soothing soliloquy.

They say time travel is impossible. Lhasa begs to differ.

Way up here, where mighty peaks flirt with billowing clouds, it's not hard to see why the pilgrims come flocking. You're definitely closer to something important up here. Rock hopes it's chili eggplant.


The devotion of the iron-willed pilgrims who will strap their meager possessions on their back and trek for weeks on foot for the chance to worship at the foot of Jokhang is inspirational. So much so that Team J00ster is ready to join them on their epic journey... from the comfort of an air-conned Land Cruiser of course.


Back at home base for the day. Which can mean only one thing. Pass the menu please!

As the lights come on, and the wok in the adjacent kitchen fires up, you know a good end to the day is in store. Unfortunately the same can't be said for this post. Must be the altitude slowing down the usual witty repartee.

There's nothing quite as cozy as kicking back in the communal courtyard after a chilly day exploring the twisting alleys of the old town. It doesn't get much better than this. Actually it does, because they have braised chili eggplant on the menu.

Not to shabby at all. Why there's not a single slab of yak meat in sight.

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