Real estate values aren't quite what they used to be along the main drag of the Yangzee through the Three Gorges - the whole backyard water feature selling point isn't quite as appealing when under closer inspection your bedroom will be 10m underwater by 2009. And I'm sure the fish will enjoy the quite literal indoor/outdoor flow. On the other hand, tour operators are raking it in - how many sights can you sell with the tag line that this really is your last chance to see it? Sure Venice is slowly sinking and maybe Yellowstone's geysers are slowly drying up, but no where else is there the same morbid finality that will be dealt my a single monolithic wall of concrete.
The 800 person cruiser Yun Zhong set sail from the port of Yichang late in the evening with the honeymooners on board. Boasting all the comforts of home - including crappy chinese dramas on the cabin's lcd tv, chili eggplant in the restaurant and a private balcony - the ship steamed up river through the first night. As the sun rose the mist that clung to the peaks on either side of the placid green water began to lift. When we last left the Yangzee it was as a raging adolescent torrent of white water in the desolate Leaping Tiger Gorge. Now she has matured into a vast expanse of calm water meandering between the statuesque peaks of the Three Gorges.
No time to admire the view though. At first light the passengers were herded onto smaller boats for an excursion up one of the tributaries of the river. Here the walls of the gorge narrow and the water is shallower. Further up and the peaceful waters began to churn in a series of rapids. So its time to change craft again, this time into traditional wooden skiffs, propelled by four oarsmen. When the water gets too shallow, they get out and pull the craft along with tow roaps. The poor blokes who drew the short straw and got Rock's mass in their boat were cursing all the way up river.
Once back on the big cruise ship the rest of the journey was just that, a cruise. Nothing beats kicking back on the balconey watching the misty blue peaks slowly slip by as the ship leisurly plies the mighty yangzee.
And that is a fitting place to bring this account to an end. From here its back to Wuhan, then the overnight sleeper to Shenzhen, then the bustle of HK again before the welcome sight of the flying kangaroo. Thanks for reading and keep an eye out for the photos, coming to a computer near you soon.
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